Good cheap accommodation here is harder to find than I expected.
After a lot of lost-in-translation phone calls, the options seem to be limited to airbnb and home stays.
When I finally struck a real estate agent who could understand me, I was told that apartment and home leases of less than a year are like snakes’ balls.
HOMESTAYS v. AIRBnB
Home stays can be much cheaper, of course, and can offer a ‘real’ local experience – more intimacy.
But that has its downsides too. You’re living in someone’s pocket, so there’s a loss of privacy. Your quirks are in plain view. You have to hold conversations. You’re more often than not sharing a kitchen or bathroom. Homestays will often not have air-conditioning or fans.
With AirBnBs, prices aren’t so good, and exact locations – which are important here – aren’t shown until after they’re booked. A photo can be worth 1000 words of bs.
On the other hand, searching and booking is easy, and hosts are rated by guests, they tend to play nice.
TOWN v. COUNTRY
Another young players’ surprise has been how difficult it is to get accommodation near the sea. I know that’s nothing new, but I found a way in Vietnam, Thailand, and Adelaide.
In Nadi, locations near the water go for the price of an aeroplane. To the south, and then East toward Suva , the seaside options are a) a gated resort , and b) a stay at a village. The first is expensive, the second involves charm and giving up all or most mod-cons. I had one place booked in Viseisei , but the owner has bedbugs.
Further North, in Fiji’s second city, Lautoka, there is no swimmable seafront. The option there is a ( cheap ) $10 FJD round trip to an island maybe 3 kms offshore.
CURRENT OPTIONS
I have to leave here on June 14. Right now, there are two possibilities I’m thinking on.
The first is a homestay about 6 doors up the road. This is with an Indian man I got talking to on my wanderings. His brother, who I happened to share a bowl of kava with in another episode, also lives there. Rent would be $125 FJD / week, a generous offer not to be sniffed at. I like the neighbourhood, it has a good vibe to it. It’s central, and the shops and market are nearby. The big downsides are the deranged local dogs, and no aircon or fan.
The other is yet-unseen place down in Sigitoka. I made tracks for it today, but mis-timed the buses, so went for a swim at Wailoaloa instead. It’s a farm house, apparently about 10 minutes’ walk from town, and not so far from the beach. It’s probably a longshot.
If both of those fail, there are back-up options which involve either spending a lot of money, or heading a little into the countryside.